Are Diamonds Losing Their Sparkle? Why Vintage Designer Jewelry Is Having a Moment

By: Maya McMillan

Diamonds are timeless. For decades, they've been the gemstone that matches everything and the go-to symbol of luxury. So why do they suddenly feel like they're falling out of favor?

The pandemic triggered an initial shift away from flashy jewelry because when you're stuck at home, there's little reason to dress up. But now that life (and going out) is back in full swing, shouldn't diamonds be having their comeback moment too? Instead, the rise of lab grown diamonds has changed the way we think about diamonds and fine jewelry as a whole. These days, spotting a young bride-to-be with a four-carat oval engagement ring, the first assumption is often that it's lab grown, not natural.

That raises an important question for collectors and jewelry lovers alike: how do we make the jewelry we wear feel valuable and special again? After all, the whole point of fine jewelry is to stand out and shine.

In this post, we're breaking down how the rise of the lab grown diamond market has impacted the natural diamond industry, and the jewelry trends that have emerged as a result — namely, a growing love for vintage designer jewelry.

The Rise of Lab Grown Diamonds and Its Effect on Natural Diamond Value

Lab grown diamonds have been around since the 1950s, but it wasn't until the last decade or two that lab grown diamonds truly disrupted the diamond market (GIA, 2013). Since then, more and more shoppers have opted for lab grown diamond engagement rings, and the impact on natural diamond pricing has been significant.

Buyers who once budgeted around $10,000 for a natural diamond engagement ring (roughly a 1.00–1.50 carat stone) can now put that same budget toward a 3.00–4.00 carat lab grown diamond. That shift has caused the value of natural diamonds under 2.00 carats to decline sharply.

To be clear: lab grown diamonds are not intrinsically worth anywhere near what natural diamonds are worth. But the price drop they've triggered has affected the market for smaller diamonds across the board, natural and lab grown alike. It's also erased much of the investment value natural diamonds once held, since smaller stones are no longer reliably appreciating in value.

The data shows a clear decline in natural diamond value, but the more interesting question is how this shift is changing consumer perception of diamonds altogether.

Why Shoppers Are Turning to Designer Jewelry Instead

As retailers, we've seen a real drop-off in sales of diamond-heavy pieces, driven by both the pandemic and the rise of lab grown diamonds. However, that doesn't mean people have stopped shopping for jewelry.

The Richemont Group, owner of Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati, and Vhernier, recently reported that jewelry sales increased 24% in Q1, up from a 16% increase the previous quarter (Vogue, 2026). LVMH, owner of Tiffany & Co. and Bvlgari, also reported strong growth in its jewelry division in the first half of the year (LVMH, 2026).

With diamond jewelry no longer reading as an obvious signal of wealth, shoppers are gravitating toward iconic designer jewelry that's instantly recognizable as valuable — pieces that speak for themselves. One of our dealers recently shared that a client had stopped wearing her 6.00 carat diamond stud earrings altogether, worried people would assume they were lab grown. She wanted a pair of designer earrings that unmistakably read as designer instead. Our recommendation? These Vintage 1980s Cartier Diamond and Onyx Panthère Earrings — part of Cartier's iconic Panthère collection, instantly recognizable as Cartier and set with exceptional stones and craftsmanship.

Cartier: The Gold Standard of Iconic Designer Jewelry

Cartier is the clearest example of a heritage brand benefiting from this shift toward designer jewelry. Collections like the Cartier Love, Cartier Juste Un Clou (Nail), and Cartier Trinity are instantly recognizable and highly sought after.

We currently carry a wide selection of Cartier pieces, including Love bracelets and rings, Juste Un Clou bracelets and rings, and Trinity earrings, bracelets, rings, and a necklace.

Van Cleef & Arpels: Timeless Design That Never Goes Out of Style

Van Cleef & Arpels is another standout example of designer jewelry with staying power. The Van Cleef Alhambra collection remains hugely popular despite its simple, understated clover motif, and is a favorite for stacking multiple bracelets together. The Perlée Clovers collection is another current favorite — including this beautiful Van Cleef & Arpels Perlée Clovers Ring, currently in our collection.

Bvlgari and the Vintage Coin Jewelry Trend

Since we specialize in vintage and antique jewelry, our collection includes plenty of classic designer pieces that remain instantly recognizable and highly desirable today. Bvlgari is a prime example of vintage designer jewelry with lasting value and recognition.

Bvlgari Monete (coin) jewelry in particular has surged in popularity recently, and prices have climbed to match the demand. These pieces carry a regal, collectible quality that adds to their appeal for anyone building out a serious jewelry collection. We currently offer vintage Bvlgari coin necklaces, a bracelet, and earrings. A personal favorite is the Vintage 1960s Bvlgari Tubogas Moneta Roman Coin Wrap Bracelet, which combines three of today's hottest vintage jewelry trends in one piece: the tubogas technique, the wrap bracelet silhouette, and Bvlgari coin motifs.

Buccellati: Vintage Craftsmanship in the 21st Century

Buccellati is another highly recognizable vintage jewelry house and a great choice for anyone looking to add a statement piece to their collection. Even Buccellati's current collections carry vintage design characteristics, making the brand a reliably timeless choice. Buccellati is also known for its use of antique cut stones, which lend pieces an even more valuable, heirloom-like quality.

The Buccellati Macri collection has remained a signature style for decades. Our Vintage 1940s Buccellati Diamond Macri Cuff Bracelet features a stunning Old European cut diamond, while our Vintage 1950s Mario Buccellati Old Mine Cut Diamond Three-Stone Bombe Ring showcases beautiful Old Mine cut diamonds — a cut that's especially in demand right now.

Why Vintage Designer Jewelry Is a Smart Investment

The estate designer jewelry market has seen real growth, and it's easy to see why. These pieces hold their value, feature exceptional materials and craftsmanship, and stand out as genuinely stunning additions to any collection. For clients looking for their next piece — especially as an alternative to traditional diamond jewelry — vintage designer jewelry is consistently our top recommendation.

Browse our full collection of vintage Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Bvlgari, and Buccellati jewelry to find your next signature piece.